ABC Part 2 . . . Anything But Cabernet
By Christian & David Asam
David: Continuing last month’s column—Anything But Chardonnay—we thought we would give our thoughts on some more obscure red varietals. Because cabernet sauvignon is probably the king of red grapes, it’s much harder to bash than its white counterpart, chardonnay. Still, we hope to entice you into trying a few lesser-known reds.
Christian: Trying to cover the thousands of red grapes out there could be an endless topic, so we’ll limit our discussion to a few red wines that we find exciting right now. You really can’t bash cabernet, but in the summer heat I prefer to drink lighter style reds.
David: To begin, I must jump right away on my favorite lighter-style red, pinot noir. From the bright, luscious, cherry and red fruit of California and New Zealand to the cerebral complexities of the earthier Oregon and Burgundy styles, this grape is sure to have something to please everyone. Pinot noir pairs wonderfully with lighter meats like chicken or pork, but also offers a lovely pairing with heavier fish like tuna or salmon. Plus it’s always a treat to drink on its own! I love the current vintage of Byron Pinot Noir from Santa Maria Valley.
Christian: I’ve got to give props to Argentina for turning malbec from a nothing blending grape into some of the richest, smoothest juice on the market today. It’s got all the big boy flavor without the harsh tannins. Perfect for grilled meats on the summer BBQ, game dishes, or anything with a rich sauce. I am always looking to Argentina for true wine values. For an inexpensive treat, try Arido Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina.
David: With the re-emergence of Spain as one of the world’s best wine producers, one must consider tempranillo to be a rising star. As in most of Europe, the location determines the grape type, so if you love “C” wines (like Cabernet) try some of the tempranillos from Rioja, especially the Crianza style that is aged to give it greater flavor. A real nice one is Beronia, Rioja, Crianza, 2006, which should be available locally.
Christian: How can you forget about syrah? It’s sometimes difficult to drink such heavy wines in the summer heat, yet syrah has certainly made its mark in the wine world. From the rich oaky style of Australia (where it’s called Shiraz) to the fruity California juice and the complex blends of the Rhone valley, syrah can make a wine for nearly any palate. It wouldd be fun to bring both malbec and syrah to a BBQ, as both go very well with similar flavors! Try to find some Thorn Clarke, “Shotfire Ridge,” Shiraz, Barossa, 2006. It’s incredible!
David: I gotta throw in a dislike on the reds. Now, this is just my opinion, but I’ve yet to find an enjoyable pinotage from South Africa. I’ve heard numerous people rave about these wines, but I can’t get over the burnt rubber, barnyard, band-aid smell, with tastes that coincide. If you do find yourself drinking Pinotage, I strongly suggest rich powerfully flavored foods, like blue cheese.
Christian: Not a fan of pinotage myself. The aromas remind me of a porta-potty. I’m going to close it up with one of my favorites, though: grenache (also called Garnacha http://www.sterlingwineonline.com/images/decanter-stemware/chardonnay-glass300.jpg in http://s7d3.scene7.com/is/image/WineEnthusiast/f/w/300/22140.jpg Spain). This grape is most often found as a blending grape in France’s Rhone valley. It makes outstanding Rose wines, but in a red it often shows characteristics of pepper-covered strawberries. If you can find a bottle of straight grenache from California, jump on it. I’m sure it’ll be a real treat. A favorite of mine is Jaffurs Grenache from Santa Barbara, California.
David: We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention any of the Italian varietals, especially, sangiovese. The wines of the famous region of Chianti are made from this grape, and can produce mediocre grocery-style juice to some of the most luscious and elegant flavors. Not to be stereotypical, but pasta with a great marinara sauce is only enhanced by a nice Chianti. However, stay away from non-Italian Sangiovese—the Italians seem to possess the secret to mastering wines from this grape. Try a well-known producer like the always-consistent Chianti Classico by Castello Banfi from Tuscany.
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Byron Pinot Noir is indeed fantastic as are many pinots from the Santa Maria Valley. Although I have to disagree about non-Italian Sangioveses. There are several impressive ones in the Santa Ynez Valley (quite a few blends with Sangio). In fact, Stolpman has some that are excellent. I believe one of their Sangio blends is stomped by foot and cofermented. I also have a friend that makes an affordable and tasty Sangio (usually 100% sometimes with a bit of Syrah) called Coquette and sold in the Epiphany tasting room in Santa Ynez.
Syrah is a popular varietals in all of Santa Barbara county and you can find both cool and warm-climate syrahs.
If you're looking for more obscure varietals check out Kenneth Volk Vineyards. Ken is a genius and works with dozens and dozens of different grapes–some quite obscure. One of my favorite is his Cabernet Pfeffer (sp?) that is extremely rare. (Check out http://www.smvwines.com for more info on Santa Maria wines).
Shame you've not found a Pinotage you like. The barnyard & band-aid smell tastes you mention sound to me like brett and the burned rubber is a fault reported in all SA wines, currently under investigation and not specific to tany one variety. Have you tried the Pinotage from Virginia?
Thank you both for your comments and for reading our column. David and I are very excited about the new website and the opportunity to get feedback and even learn more about wine from our readers. If you have not noticed in our articles David and I take wine very lightly. We have fun with wine, we relax with wine, we have good times with friends with wine and we want that light hearted energy to come across in our columns. Our recipie for the Grape Debate is to take a bit of education, mix it with a dash of sarcasm, a drop of brotherly love, and hopefully a laugh every once in a while.
Kady, I will try to source some Kenneth Volk wines thanks for the heads up!
Peter, I have to admitt really liking one SA pinotage about 5 years ago it was Wildekrans, cant recall the vintage.I have not tried a Virginia Pinotage and would love to know which you would recommend?
piano cover…
Thanks heaps for this!… if anyone else has anything, it would be much appreciated. Great website HOT Pianoforte Links http://www.en.Grand-Pianos.org Enjoy!…
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