Grape Debate: A Wine For All Birds
by Christian Asam and David Asam
David: As this is the December issue, we have decided to share our opinions on our favorite wines to go with a Traditional Turkey Dinner. No surprise that Christian’s favorites come from the New World, while I have stuck with the timehonored pairings of the Old World.
Christian: Mmmmm … Turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, roasted vegetables… Just what I need to destroy my Atkins diet. But at least we can wash it all down with some delicious wines. Each year David and I and the Asam families get together for a feast and part of the timehonored tradition is which of us can bring the better wines. This year I am confident I will win for sure!
D: Not so fast Christian, here is my first choice. One of my favorite pairings with this meal are the lovely wines from Alsace. Whether it be a dry riesling, spicy gewurztraminer, or mellow Pinot Blanc, these wines have racy acids, lovely structure, and vibrant citrus flavors. Try Trimbach’s riesling ($25). Unlike many German rieslings this wine is dry, crisp, with hints of tropical fruits that make it a table-pleasing pairing for the big meal.
C: Not bad, but for my lighter white, I am going to head down under to Australia. You may remember us recommending in the past Ironberry shiraz, the purple wine in the purple bottle. Now they have come out with a white wine (in a green bottle) that is a blend of chardonnay and viognier. It is delicious and don’t worry you can hardly even tell there is chardonnay in the blend. ($16)
D: While Christian’s hate for chardonnay continues I am going back to France to the home of chardonnay, Burgundy France. The Chardonnay styles range from dry crisp mineral flavors to fullbodied buttery monsters. But for the turkey pairing I suggest, Trouillet’s Pouilly-Fuisse ($27), where you’ll find a nice balance between fresh cut pineapple and melon and concentrated vanilla & spice.
C: If you are like me and want a bigger white wine that is mouthfilling, that will stand up to all the dressings, try a serious California sauvignon blanc. These wines will be a bit more expensive but the flavors are complex and rich. Two of my favorites for right around $40 a bottle are Rochioli Estate Sauvignon Blanc and Merry Edwards Russian River Sauvignon Blanc. Prepare to be amazed! If you want a similar experience but more floral components try a high end California viognier like Miner or Calera. These bottlings are a bit more expensive than our usual suggestions, but they will pair perfectly with a complex holiday dinner.
D: I think we’ve got space for each of us to also offer a red suggestion… so make it count. I’ve got to throw something in from one of my newest favorite wine countries, Spain. Great people making great wine at great prices. Spain is just great! One of the most widely grown grapes in Spain is Tempranillo, whose style can often be described as very similar to Cabernet Sauvignon. Try Beronia’s Crianza from Rioja ($18). Full bodied with subtle tannins, elegant red fruits of plums and dark berries, with lovely hints of clove and spice.
C: You mentioned Pinot Noir before, but I think the best ones nowadays come from Oregon. Their style is similar to Burgundy, but get this, the wines have fruit! There must be a reason why so many topnotch producers of Burgundy are setting up shop in Oregon. One of my favorites is A to Z from Willamette Valley. ($24) Spicy cherry, hints of tangerine, and a slight earthy balance provides a little something to create a perfect pairing for the whole meal.
Christian and David Asam manage the 650 selection wine list and cellar at the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown. You can email your grape debate questions to David@Bavarianinnwv.com or Christian@Bavarianinnwv.com.
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