Christian: We are just a couple of days away from the biggest party of the year, New Years Eve, or as I lovingly nickname it “amateur night.” Sure we know it’s a mindless wine theme party, everyone drinks or at least toasts with champagne. Champagne has long been synonymous with celebrating. Whether it be the christening of the QE2 by crashing a magnum of bubbles onto the hull to celebrate its maiden voyage, or the Red Sox celebrating another World Series title. Or on MTV, the videos with rappers poppin’ Cristal celebrating all their money and bling. In our culture champagne means a celebration, and celebrations need champagne.

David: Very poetically said, Christian. I feel like I am listening to a “No Reservations” episode starring Anthony Bordain. But you are right. We all celebrate with champagne, but do we all understand champagne? Let’s start with the basics. First, not all sparkling wines can be called champagne. Champagne must be from Champagne, France to be called champagne. This is the law. Other countries have other words for their bubbles. Germany has Sekt, Italy has Spumante, Spain has Cava, French sparklers outside of Champagne are Mousseaux, and in the United States we call it simply sparkling wine. I think for once we can agree, Christian, that the best bubbles in the world do come from Champagne.

C: I guess I can stop French bashing this month and agree. But you are gonna be real stretched to find many values from there. For quality bubbles that won’t break the bank, I suggest the Spanish Cavas. But we could write all day about the sparklers of the world. Today let’s just focus on champagne.

D: Okay, then, how about a little champagne education? Champagne can be made from three grapes or a blending of the three: pinot noir, pinot meunier, and chardonnay. Some people might be shocked to know that two of the three grapes are red, and one is white, yet the champagne itself is almost always white.

C: You can find out a lot about the grapes by reading the label. Most labels are not going to say chardonnay or pinot noir on them, but you will find other terms like blanc de blanc, which translates “white from white.” These sparklers are 100-percent chardonnay. Then there is blanc de noirs, or “white from black.” These are white champagnes made from red grapes. The reason the wine is not red is because the skins, which hold the color, are removed from the wine-making process. There is quite a difference in taste between the two styles. For clean, crisp, yeasty sparklers look to blanc de blanc. For deep, rich, very golden bubbles search for a blanc de noir.

D: And don’t forget my favorite type of champagne, the pink one. Made from red grapes with the skin left in the process for a short time. Roses have the complexity and subtle flavors of some of my favorite red wines.

C: Also take a look at whether there is a vintage listed on the bottle. If there is no year on the bottle, that means that the juice is from multiple harvests. Don’t get worried; there is nothing wrong with that. But if you do find a bottle of 1990 in your cellar, take note. You have a gem, containing only juice from that near perfect year.

D: Many people think that champagne is only for celebrating or to drink with caviar. Not true. Several months ago I was lucky enough to attend a champagne dinner of fine Boizel champagnes. The winemaker flew in from France, and worked with the chef to pair his different bubbles with a six-course meal. And I tell you, it not only worked, it rocked. It’s true, the right champagne can even complement a filet mignon.

C: Six courses of champagne? That sounds like the makings of a huge headache to me.

D: That’s another hangover myth. The secret to champagne is the tiny bubbles. The headache creators are the cheap wines in which gas is pumped into the juice, making monster bubbles. This is known in the wine world as the “charmat” or “the tank method.” To avoid the headaches, look for wine with “Method Champenois” on the label, which means that the bubbles were created by the traditional method rather than being pumped with carbon dioxide like Mountain Dew.

Recommended Champagnes To Ring in the New Year

D: I recommend Louis Roederer Brut Premiere, from the same wine maker as Cristal at a quarter of the price. This wine is nicknamed “Cristal’s Little Sister.” About $55 retail.

C: One of my favorites is the Veuve Clicquot “Yellow Label.” You can find it in any wine shop for about $45. Or if you really want to impress your wine geek friends, bring Diebolt Vallois “Fleur de Passion.” It is a stunner, and you will look like you did your homework.

Have a Happy New Year!
Christian and David Asam manage the 650-bottle wine cellar at the Bavarian Inn in Shepherdstown.