Antietam National Battlefield in the spring
I intended to go out looking for the first signs of spring. After the recent cold weather and back-to-back snow and ice storms, I was ready for promises of warmer and greener days. Just what is the first sign of spring has been part of family debate for years. For some it is the first robin sighting, or the blooming of small flowers like snowdrops or crocuses, or the distinct smell of the first warm breeze. For others it means putting away the heavy winter clothes or the longer periods of daylight.
When I lived in a mountain cabin it was the bloom of the serviceberry tree. Before modern machinery, undertakers stored all the deceased bodies that accumulated over the winter until the ground had thawed enough to perform a proper burial service. The serviceberry, a medium-sized tree with small bright-white blooms, is one of the first trees to bloom each year. Undertakers adopted the serviceberry as the official first sign of spring. The serviceberry is still one of my favorites.
Since my life now involves a long daily commute and less time in the woods, I have, unfortunately noticed the number of dead skunks that seem to accumulate along the side of the road this time of year. I assume the skunks are moved by a primeval force to begin searching for a mate and they loose some of their normal wariness of roads and noise. Sadly, this has become my new first sign of spring.
We headed out to Antietam National Battlefield looking for a little more positive sign of spring than dead skunks along the road. Antietam National Battlefield is located across the river in Sharpsburg and is managed by the National Park Service. Antietam National Battlefield was preserved to commemorate the ferocious Civil War battle there on September 17, 1862, when more than 23,000 Union and Confederate soldiers were killed or wounded. The park is filled with incredible historical information and monuments to commemorate those who fought there and to educate visitors on the battle. There is a wonderful visitor center that shows a daily movie on the battle and a self-guided tour of the various troop movements, encampments battles, and positions. More than 100,000 Union and Confederate soldiers took part in the battle.
One hidden feature of Antietam is the many trails that run through it. We walked on the Snavelys Ford Trail along Antietam Creek (Snavelys Ford played a prominent part in the battle at the Burnside Bridge). The trailhead is best reached by going to the parking lot above the Burnside Bridge. The trail starts out paved, then leads to the Georgians Overlook. This spot provides a scenic view of creek below.
We then followed the unpaved trail down through the woods to Antietam Creek. The woods at this point include many statuesque sycamores. The setting was perfect; right away I was sure the signs of spring would come. We spotted bright red cardinals, heard the chatter of Carolina wrens and watched titmice, chickadees and other small birds go about their business of collecting seeds. The Snavelys Ford trail follows the creek, and along the way several benches offer rest and reflection. The trail is well maintained and is generally easy to walk. There is a slight slope down to the creek and a gradual return uphill. But the benches help make the walk easier.
The scenery along the creek is absolutely beautiful. There are steep rock outcroppings surrounding the trail. The sound of the gurgling water is peaceful and serene. We stopped for a while to enjoy this tranquility on a large fallen sycamore that dipped into the water. While stopped, in an instant I thought I spotted a river otter. We stayed still and quiet, hoping to get a better look, but the animal eluded further sighting. We kept our eyes on the ground along the creek hoping to discover any flower poking up through winter’s left over leaves and plant stalks. We did not see anything bloom, but we all agreed that the warm air and sunny sky was surely a sign of spring.
The trail follows the creek for the majority of the time, but eventually heads up hill through dense cedar groves. We startled a sleeping deer that jumped and headed to better cover. Squirrels skittered in dry leaves throughout our walk. The trail eventually connects with a lane that heads back to the McKinley monument at the parking lot. This day we spent about 90 minutes walking the trail, including several stops.
Not satisfied that I had found enough signs of spring, I returned with a friend by bike. My cycling partner happens to be an expert on Civil War history, so I was treated to an impromptu history lesson on some of the many fascinating and gruesome facts about Antietam. Biking the roads through Antietam is another way to enjoy the open space and try to understand the awesome event that occurred here almost 150 years ago. The roads are gently rolling and car traffic rarely an issue.
We climbed the observation tower above the Bloody Lane to excellent views of the battlefield and the surrounding countryside. The bike ride provided no definitive signs of spring either. But the scenery is great and the warm breeze and bright sun did help me feel like spring was near.
On the way back through Sharpsburg, the pull of Nutters Ice Cream drew us in. It seemed justifiable since we had done so much hard riding. We ordered our scoops and sat outside on a bench to enjoy the sunny, warm, almost spring-like weather. A family of four disembarked from their car and the father, seeing us dressed in our bike gear commented, “it must be spring.” Ahh, yes I thought, that is definitely a sign of spring.
Whether you are looking for the first sign of spring, some understanding of one the bloodiest battles of the Civil War or just want to take a peaceful walk along the Antietam Creek, the Antietam National Battlefield is a great place to visit.
Trail maps are available at the visitor center and also online at www.nps.gov/anti. Antietam Battlefield has a lot to offer and is a place worthy of many return visits.
Directions: From the four way stop in Shepherdstown, proceed on North Duke Street (the speed limit is 25 mph) across the bridge for four miles to Sharpsburg. Continue through Sharpsburg and take a left onto route 65 for roughly 1.5 miles to the Antietam visitors center. If headed to Snavelys Ford Trail, proceed through Sharpsburg, past the left turn for Route 65, and continue uphill past Antietam National Cemetery. After passing the Cemetery, drive roughly a half mile and turn right on Rodman Avenue in the park. Proceed on Rodman Avenue and bear left at the fork in the road. The parking lot is located about another half mile from the fork.