When the peepers emerge in force, surely April’s wildflowers and time outdoors are right behind. Here’s a scenic day trip to the nearby Catoctin Mountains offering a bit of nature, a bit of history, and, in observance of the primary elections, some presidential kitch. It starts with breakfast at a classic roadhouse diner and continues with a leafy drive to Cunningham Falls and the history exhibits at Catoctin Mountain Park. There you can enjoy a leisurely wildflower hike when the colorful spring ephemerals are in bloom. Then it’s on to lunch (and maybe libations) at Historic Cozy—home of the Camp David museum. From there, spend time exploring Catoctin Furnace, visit a scenic covered bridge, then stop for an afternoon cuppa in Frederick.
The trek begins at the junction of Alternate Route 40 and U.S. 40 at the western end of Frederick’s Golden Mile. Take Route 40 west from the junction about a quarter mile and look for the giant candy cane on the right. At Barbara Fritchie “Candy Stick” Restaurant, pie is the breakfast of champions. Pies of all sorts and breakfast Americana are what the Candy Stick is all about. Even if you go for supper, breakfast and pie is the real stuff. 1513 W. Patrick St.; (U.S. Route 40); (301) 662-2500.
From the Candy Stick, turn right and climb into the hills. Go about five miles, then turn right onto Gambrill Park Road. The road winds into mountains, entering Gambrill State Park. At the top of the hill, you can pull into High Knob picnic area for spectacular views from the pavilion, then continue north.
The Catoctin range is a kind of Central Park for Frederick County, with some 20,000 acres of parks and forest stretching from Route 40 more than 20 miles north—almost to the Pennsylvania line. Stay on Gambrill Park Road for several miles until the junction with Tower Road. Go left here—if you want to climb a lookout tower for great views, detour right on Gambrill Park Road for a half mile. Stay on Tower Road for one mile, then turn right onto Mink Farm Road. A mile farther, Mink Farm Road ends at Catoctin Hollow Road.
Turn left and drive through the forest, coming to Cunningham Falls State Park. Follow signs for falls parking. It’s a short hike to the falls. At 78 feet, the cascading Cunningham Falls surely ranks as one of the great natural features of the region. Kids love to play there; marriage proposals are made there. It’s nice. There is a handicap-accessible parking lot on Route 77. You can also park at the national park visitor center (for free) and hike to the falls (see below).
Turn east (right) onto Route 77 toward Thurmont, and travel one mile to the Catoctin Mountain Park visitor center. In the 1920s and 1930s, most eastern mountain ranges were nearly treeless. Timbering and charcoal production denuded the mountains, and soil eroded into creeks and streams. So launched the era of national and state forests and watershed reserves. In the Catoctin Mountains, the federal government started an ambitious demonstration program to regenerate the forest. At the same time President Franklin Roosevelt established a presidential retreat in these mountains. He called it Shangri La—today’s Camp David. The plan was to turn over all of the federal land to the state of Maryland for parkland. When Roosevelt later balked at giving the land to Maryland, two fine parks were created: Catoctin Mountain National Park and Cunningham Falls State Park.
The visitor center at Catoctin houses a modest but informative display on the natural and cultural heritage of the mountains. Pick up a free map inside and take a hike to enjoy the wildflowers. From the first blooms of spring into early June, the trails present a serial display of spring beauties, cutleaf toothwort, wild geranium, bloodroot, wild ginger, rue anemone, wood anemone, yellow violet, yellow adders tongue, cardinal flower, hepatica, jack-in-the-pulpit, several species of orchid, and mayapple.
You can drive up Central Park Road to a short trail interpreting the charcoal operations that dominated the mountain and provided fuel for Catoctin Furnace. There is a bookstore that carries maps and local histories; there also is a restroom.
Continue east on Route 77 into Thurmont.Turn right on Water Street, then right on Frederick Road, and proceed to the Cozy Restaurant and the Camp David exhibit. The Camp David exhibit displays memorabilia, photographs, and news clippings about presidential visits to the nearby retreat. Members of the White House press corps often stay at The Cozy Inn next door, so they are part of the presidential exhibit.
The Cozy is a trippy world of themed dining rooms. Its atmosphere is a holdover from a time when Thurmont was far removed from Washington, D.C., when most visitors to the area were families touring the parks. The lunch buffet is as popular today as it was decades ago. You can really pig out if you’ve had a good hike.
As you head south on Frederick Road, Catoctin Furnace about a mile from town, is part of Cunningham Falls State Park. Only one blast furnace and the ruins of the manager’s residence remain. Storyboards describe the iron era in the region and the Civil War action that took place nearby. The entire site can be explored in about 20 minutes. After the groaning board at The Cozy, you’ll need to go slowly.
Head back into Thurmont and turn right onto Main Street, Route 77. At the eastern edge of town, bear left to stay on Route 77, Rocky Ridge Road, and enjoy the scenic valley. In two miles, reach Old Frederick Road. Turn right to go to Loy’s Station Covered Bridge Park. Built in 1848, the bridge has since been rebuilt, but its original timbers are intact over the 90-foot span across Owens Creek. There are picnic tables in the adjacent park. Take a camp chair and have a seat by the bridge; take some pictures, then take a nap.
Continue south on Old Frederick Road, which rejoins Route 15 just north of Frederick. If you want to fuel up on cappuccino before heading back to Jefferson County, take a detour into downtown Frederick.
Adapted from the book Journey Through Hallowed Ground, by David Lillard, published by Capital Books. Available at Four Seasons Books.
