Lamb chops and roasts tend to be expensive cuts, yet the less costly ground lamb is an admirable and adaptable ingredient, too often neglected. Local lamb is available from small growers across the region, and is well worth seeking out for the flavor, different breeds, and more benign production practices than the large confinement operations and Australian exporters that supply supermarket chains.

The farms listed below raise lamb, but may not have a steady supply. It is always wise to call or email in advance to inquire about availability. Horst Meats is a small family-run abattoir and farm run by Mennonites, who work with a network of small producers. Their shop offers delicious fresh sausage, and traditional items such as scrapple, also known as ponhaus.

Chicama Run
Purcellville, VA
540-668-9828
www.chicamarun.com

Horst Meats
17807 Reiff Church Rd
Hagerstown, MD 21740
(301) 733-1089

Hurry Burry Farm
Smisthburg, MD
301-416-0005
www.hurryburry.com

Milcreek Farm
Lovettsville, VA
540-822-4181
www.milcrk.com

Rohrer’s Meats (S-town Farmers’ Market)
Boonesboro, MD
301-432-8350
dakarohfarm@aol.com

Southwood Farm
Kearneysville, WV 304-876-7080.

Grilled Herbed Lamb Burgers
Based on traditional Middle East recipes for ground lamb kebabs, this flavorful and adaptable recipe is great for outdoor grilling. It also works well broiled or pan-fried. Use freshly ground lamb with some fat in it; patties made with lean meat tend to crumble when cooking. Serve on a bed of mixed salad greens with yogurt sauce, accompanied by sliced ripe tomatoes, grilled zucchini, eggplant and thick onion slices, and warm pita bread.
1 1/4 pounds ground lamb
3/4 cup finely chopped scallions or green onions
1 Serrano chili, finely chopped (about 2 tablespoons) or substitute 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper)
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 garlic clove, minced
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (or allspice)
4 tablespoons olive oil, for coating

Combine all the ingredients except for the oil in a bowl and mix with a fork until well combined. Elevate one edge of a rimmed jelly roll or rimmed sheet pan with a folded towel or other prop, and pour the olive oil into the lower end. Wet your hands with cold water and shape the mixture into 8 to 10 patties, or oblong football shapes. Coat in the oil and set aside without touching each other on the pan. Cover and chill until ready to cook.

Prepare a fire in an outdoor grill. If using charcoal, allow the coals to glow red before placing the meat on the grill to avoid burning the meat. Place the patties on the grill a few inches apart and cook undisturbed for about 5 minutes. Turn with a metal spatula and cook for another 5 to 8 minutes until the meat is cooked through and barely pink.

Yogurt Garlic Sauce
Yogurt drained of its whey produces a thicker, creamier texture. Some thrifty bakers use the straw-colored whey for bread. You can skip the draining, but the sauce will be thin. This can be remedied (with extra calories) by whisking in a few tablespoons of sour cream.
2 cups plain yogurt
1 large clove garlic, minced
4 tablespoons finely shredded fresh mint, and/or fresh cilantro
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil

To drain the yogurt, spoon into a large paper coffee filter set in a sieve over a bowl. Set aside for about an hour until the whey collects in the bowl. Lift the filter paper by the edges, flip upside down in another bowl and peel the paper off the thickened yogurt.
Mix the yogurt with the remaining ingredients and chill until ready to serve.