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Life Outside: Rambling Around Gettysburg  


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by David Lillard

Taking a hike or ride doesn’t have to mean heading into a quiet wood. Civil War battlefields offer some of the best walking and biking in the area. And covering the battleground on foot or two wheels gives you the best sense of the terrain. You can really understand the battle in a way you can’t by reading signs out your car window.

For years Gettysburg suffered a bum rap from people who don’t like the Civil War souvenir shops lining Stienwehr Avenue and Baltimore Street. That’s like dissing the Atlantic beaches, with their lovely inland bays, because there are too many T-shirt stores and French fry shacks. It’s the scene; drink it in.

If it’s been a while since you’ve toured the battlefield, the opening of a new $130 million visitor center is reason enough to go. The addition completes a transformation of the battlefield and town that began with the demolition of a privately operated observation tower which blared music over the entire battlefield. And over the last few years the town has added wayside signs interpreting the battle from a civilian perspective. Placed in front of private homes, churches, business, schools and other vintage structures, the markers tell personal stories of house-to-house street fighting and soldiers shot on doorsteps as they banged on doors desperately seeking refuge. There are stories of residents coweing in cellars to stay clear of stray bullets. It’s a very different battle than the one best known for its half-mile formation lines and cornfield charges.

You can follow them in an ordered, self-guided walking tour described on a pocket map of the town. Or, you can happen upon the markers randomly while sidling window to window to preview restaurant menus or walking off those Adams County staples, a hot dog and milkshake.

Then walk the town, the historic college campus, or the Seminary grounds. The best way to experience Gettysburg is on foot on a guided walking tour. Better yet, hire one of Main Street Gettysburg’s licensed town guides for a personalized tour. See www.mainstreetgettysburg.org or call 717-337 3491.

Ike and I Love Lucy. Before leaving Gettysburg, visit Eisenhower National Historic Site. President and Mrs. Eisenhower bought the farm in 1950 as a weekend retreat. Adjacent to the battlefield, the farm would become their home after his presidency. This was the only home the couple ever owned. It sits in a magnificent setting, with views stretching to the mountains. Reflecting Ike’s personal taste, the house is a kind of 1950s informal—remember, this is an era when many men wore ties on the weekends! It is presented largely the way Ike and Mamie lived there. On the porch (his favorite room) there’s an easel with one of his unfinished paintings and shelves full of Mamie’s favorite books (including one by Stephen King), and the television where Ike liked to watch “I Love Lucy.” There is no parking at the site. Buy a ticket at the battlefield visitor center, and take the shuttle.

Picnic on a covered bridge. Follow Pumping Station Road from Confederate Avenue on the battlefield; just after crossing Marsh Creek, turn left onto Scotts Road and go about 200 yards to parking area of Sach’s Covered Bridge. Standing on the bridge, you can imagine the caissons and cannon rumbling over the wooden planks. If you take a wee nap on the bridge, you’re guaranteed wild dreams so don’t sleep close to the edge.

While you’re in the area, stop in to see the Historic Round Barn in Cashtown. This architectural marvel was built at the height of the round barn era in 1914. Now the barn is a market for a huge variety of fruits, berries and vegetables, and an assortment jams and other farm bounty. Stop by in autumn for cider pressing. Kids like the farm animals outside. Guys like the barn. (717-334-1984; www.roundbarngettysburg.com).

If you still need that walk-in-the-woods fix, west of Gettysburg is Strawberry Hill Preserve in Fairfield. There are more than 600 acres to roam below Mt. Hope. Enjoy a stroll by Middle Creek or take a walk on the wide, gently graded paths. There are picnic tables and nature exhibits. www.straberryhill.org.

From Strawberry Hill, take the backroads past Ski Liberty into Emmitsburg, Md., then back down U.S. 15 toward Frederick, and home to Jefferson County.


 
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