David: Continuing last month’s column—Anything But Chardonnay—we thought we would give our thoughts on some more obscure red varietals. Because cabernet sauvignon is probably the king of red grapes, it’s much harder to bash than its white counterpart, chardonnay. Still, we hope to entice you into trying a few lesser-known reds.

Christian: Trying to cover the thousands of red grapes out there could be an endless topic, so we’ll limit our discussion to a few red wines that we find exciting right now. You really can’t bash cabernet, but in the summer heat I prefer to drink lighter style reds.

David: To begin, I must jump right away on my favorite lighter-style red, pinot noir. From the bright, luscious, cherry and red fruit of California and New Zealand to the cerebral complexities of the earthier Oregon and Burgundy styles, this grape is sure to have something to please everyone. Pinot noir pairs wonderfully with lighter meats like chicken or pork, but also offers a lovely pairing with heavier fish like tuna or salmon. Plus it’s always a treat to drink on its own! I love the current vintage of Byron Pinot Noir from Santa Maria Valley.

Christian: I’ve got to give props to Argentina for turning malbec from a nothing blending grape into some of the richest, smoothest juice on the market today. It’s got all the big boy flavor without the harsh tannins. Perfect for grilled meats on the summer BBQ, game dishes, or anything with a rich sauce. I am always looking to Argentina for true wine values. For an inexpensive treat, try Arido Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina.

David: With the re-emergence of Spain as one of the world’s best wine producers, one must consider tempranillo to be a rising star. As in most of Europe, the location determines the grape type, so if you love “C” wines (like Cabernet) try some of the tempranillos from Rioja, especially the Crianza style that is aged to give it greater flavor. A real nice one is Beronia, Rioja, Crianza, 2006, which should be available locally.

Christian: How can you forget about syrah? It’s sometimes difficult to drink such heavy wines in the summer heat, yet syrah has certainly made its mark in the wine world. From the rich oaky style of Australia (where it’s called Shiraz) to the fruity California juice and the complex blends of the Rhone valley, syrah can make a wine for nearly any palate. It wouldd be fun to bring both malbec and syrah to a BBQ, as both go very well with similar flavors! Try to find some Thorn Clarke, “Shotfire Ridge,” Shiraz, Barossa, 2006. It’s incredible!

David: I gotta throw in a dislike on the reds. Now, this is just my opinion, but I’ve yet to find an enjoyable pinotage from South Africa. I’ve heard numerous people rave about these wines, but I can’t get over the burnt rubber, barnyard, band-aid smell, with tastes that coincide. If you do find yourself drinking Pinotage, I strongly suggest rich powerfully flavored foods, like blue cheese.

Christian: Not a fan of pinotage myself. The aromas remind me of a porta-potty. I’m going to close it up with one of my favorites, though: grenache (also called Garnacha http://www.sterlingwineonline.com/images/decanter-stemware/chardonnay-glass300.jpg in http://s7d3.scene7.com/is/image/WineEnthusiast/f/w/300/22140.jpg Spain). This grape is most often found as a blending grape in France’s Rhone valley. It makes outstanding Rose wines, but in a red it often shows characteristics of pepper-covered strawberries. If you can find a bottle of straight grenache from California, jump on it. I’m sure it’ll be a real treat. A favorite of mine is Jaffurs Grenache from Santa Barbara, California.

David: We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention any of the Italian varietals, especially, sangiovese. The wines of the famous region of Chianti are made from this grape, and can produce mediocre grocery-style juice to some of the most luscious and elegant flavors. Not to be stereotypical, but pasta with a great marinara sauce is only enhanced by a nice Chianti. However, stay away from non-Italian Sangiovese—the Italians seem to possess the secret to mastering wines from this grape. Try a well-known producer like the always-consistent Chianti Classico by Castello Banfi from Tuscany.

Swiss chard, a cousin of beets, has a delicate flavor and a sturdier texture than spinach, which makes it ideal for stuffing. Recently I treated dinner guests with this:

Persian-style Stuffed Swiss Chard
This is a dish to make when you have an abundant supply of Swiss chard. You can substitute a cup of fresh or frozen green peas, or cooked chickpeas or lentils for the yellow split peas, which will take the dish in a different delicious direction (see recipe note.) As you prepare the leaves, some may tear or have holes, and can be patched with pieces of extra leaves. If you omit the lamb for a meatless dish, add more legumes and season the stuffing well. Serve with a dish of plain yogurt mixed with a little minced garlic and chopped mint.

30 large Swiss chard leaves (whole and unblemished), plus a few extra for patching.
2/3 cup basmati rice
1/4 cup dried yellow split peas, or 1 cup fresh peas
1-3/4 cup water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup olive oil
1 large white onion, chopped (about 1-1/4 cups)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 pound ground lamb
1-1/4 teaspoons cinnamon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch scallions, sliced fine crosswise
1/4 cup finely shredded fresh mint leaves
2 cups lightly packed chopped parsley
1 cup lightly packed chopped cilantro
2 teaspoons sugar
Lemon juice, and lemon wedges

Wash the Swiss chard leaves, taking care to keep them whole. Fill a sink or basin with cold water, and add ice cubes. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Holding the leaves by their stems, dip them into the boiling water for 5 – 10 seconds until they wilt, then transfer to the cold water bath. Lift the leaves out gently and lay in a colander to drain.

Wash the rice well, and soak in cold water for 10 minutes, then drain. Put the dried peas in a saucepan with the 1-3/4 cups water, bring to a simmer, and cook, partially covered for about 20 minutes. Stir in the rice, salt and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then reduce to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, covered for 20 minutes.

Note: If using fresh peas, use 1-1/4 cups water to cook the rice, and add the peas on top of the rice after it has cooked for 10 minutes. After the rice has rested, gently fluff the rice to fold in the peas.
Put the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic and lamb, and cook, stirring, until the lamb loses its pink color. Lower the heat to medium and continue cooking until the lamb begins to brown and the moisture evaporates. Add the cinnamon, season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool.

Add the scallions, herbs and sugar to the meat, and fold in the rice and peas. Mix gently, and taste for seasonings.

Working with one leaf at a time, place on a large cutting board, and cut out the tough center stem, leaving smaller leaves intact towards the top. The lobes of larger leaves may be big enough to use alone, or overlapped with smaller leaves.

Put a heaping tablespoonful of rice filling along the wider end of each leaf, so that the ribs are horizontal for ease of rolling. Fold the edge of the leaf over the filling, tucking in firmly and roll, folding the sides over to make a firm package for the filling. Place seam side down on a tray.
Place a steamer tray or basket in the bottom of a pan with a tight fitting lid. Place the stuffed leaves seam side down, in tightly packed rows, and crisscross the layers. Weigh them down with a plate large enough to fit in the pan.

Pour about a cup of water down the inside side of the pan. Bring to a boil, covered, and turn the heat to low after a minute. Cook for about 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside, covered for about 30 minutes.

Carefully transfer the rolls to a serving plate – they will be tender. Squeeze lemon juice over them and serve warm, room temperature or cold with extra lemon wedges and mint-garlic yogurt.

Christian: I, too, have tasted and loved chardonnays. Actually, I am lying. I usually hate chardonnay. I just can’t get over all the oak treatment. The aromas of most of them remind me of hard labor in a lumber yard. So, I am happy to share some ABC’s and more good news: the wines I’ll recommend are usually cheaper than Chardonnay as well!

D: To begin, let’s try viognier, pronounced (VEE Own YEAH). This grape produces wines with a very similar body and consistency to chardonnay, yet has a much fresher taste that often is described as floral tropical fruits. It’s indigenous to the Rhone Valley of France, but California and South America are making gorgeous wines with viognier. Try one with fresh seafood, especially crab meat.

C: Sauvignon blanc may be my beverage of choice, especially in these hot summer months. This crisp clean white can vary in flavor from fresh citrus to gooseberry and mineral, depending on its origin. The Loire Valley of France is the true home to this varietal, yet New Zealand is producing some outstanding sauvignon blancs. I like to think this wine will go great with any food you would squeeze lemon over.

D: Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris (name depends on location) is another white alternative with very mild, easy drinking flavors. When you just want a glass of wine, but don’t want to commit to any strong tastes or mouthfeel, pinot grigio is the way to go. In fact my neighbor often refers to this grape as “Sissy Italiano.” With favorable price points and as a non-offensive crowd pleaser, Pinot Grigio has an important home in the wine world. Check Italy for the true original of this grape, but look into Oregon Pinot Gris for some lively twists on this relatively boring grape!

C: Pinot Grigio? Really? I am not a fan, just can’t get past the cloying finish of that stuff. I would like to suggest two white wine grapes that many people have probably never heard of—and that grow nowhere near each other. Lets start with a trip to Argentina and my new favorite summer sipper grape, torrontes. I would best describe it as viognier hooking up with sauvignon blanc. Imagine beautiful floral aromas, racy acidity, with a cheap price tag. Also try Gruner Veltliner from Austria. This bone dry white is the best combination for those tasty heirloom tomatoes in your garden.

D: My German ancestors would be very upset if I did not mention the pride of Deutschland, the riesling grape. This grape has many different personalities. German riesling can be slightly sweet to “pour over your pancakes” sweet. Meanwhile, riesling from Alsace, France, can be bone dry or a touch sweet. When grown in the Southern Hemisphere this grape is much different, usually bone dry, and very oily in texture. For everyday summer sipping, I recommend German rieslings with Kabinett on the label. These wines will have a touch of sweetness, but will not send a diabetic in to sugar shock.

Here are Christian and David’s favorite two ABC wines available now in a wine shop near you.

Christian:
Urban Unico Torrontes. I have recommended this one before. Trust me, it’s awesome and cheap!
Lois Gruner Veltliner. Perfect with your fresh garden tomato and basil.

David:
Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand. Great citrus flavors and wonderful acidity.
Eilenz Ayler Kupp Riesling, QBA Germany. A great slightly sweet summer wine, try this with spicy Thai or Indian food.